Wednesday, 28th February
Luckily
it remained dry while we packed up and made ready to leave once more. Today we
were heading for Hobart only 130km away. After a 30 year absence I was very
excited. Five minutes down the road we were riding in light drizzle and the
rain stayed with us nearly all the way. We had fog while winding our way down
the steep, twisty Tarraleah Valley. It was tough riding but a challenge we both
enjoyed. By the time we arrived in Hamilton we felt we had earned our morning
tea.
We
managed to find room in an adequate caravan park in Berridale, only 8km north
of Hobart. In between the showers we set up camp right on the banks of the
Derwent River. In the distance to the left was the Cadburys chocolate factory,
to the right and next door a sewage works - charming! With people to see and
old haunts to revisit, we made ourselves at home in Hobart for a week.
Victoria Dock
Thursday, 1st March
When
we woke up it was still drizzling. Mt Wellington, which towers over old Hobart
Town was still lost in the cloud. It seemed like a good day to do the Cadburys
Chocolate Factory tour, so we booked in and off we went. The best part of the
tour was probably access to the "seconds" shop. We stocked up on
brunch bars and peppermint flakes to the point where we could eat them two at a
time and not notice the pile going down! There we were, growing old
disgracefully again, and increasing our girth at the same time!
The
rain persisted so in the afternoon we went to the maritime museum, which
included a wonderful exhibition on Antarctica. Best of all it was free! It had
been a good day. To cap it all off, the weather was kind enough to allow us to
stay dry on the short ride back to camp.
Friday, 2nd March
We
woke up to a bleak morning, in the afternoon we had commitments to visit
friends. In our optimism we decided to make a day of it and take the scenic B68
road which takes you south of Hobart, through Woodbridge and Cygnet and onto
Huonville. By 10am we had aborted the ride. The rain had set in, and there was
no point in a scenic ride because you couldn't see anything as the cloud was so
low.
We
had been told that visitors are welcome at the Antarctic Division headquarters
in Kingston. We were only a couple of kilometres away so we stopped, mainly to
warm up with a cup of coffee. However we were treated to the full-on guided
tour with a friend of a friend, and spent four hours learning a little more
about Australia's remotest outpost. It rained the whole time we were there.
Eventually we had to leave so we could reach our first engagement on time.
The
road from Hobart to Huonville would be a great ride on a nice dry day but like
any good road, "when they are good they are very very good, but when they
are bad they are horrid." The locals still motor along and we were given
the hurry-up by an empty logging truck which didn't make it a comfortable ride.
It
was great to catch up with old friends. We couldn't stay long as we had another
engagement to attend to! A much more traumatic affair visiting our sailing
friend Else, whose husband Tod had passed away at the end of 2006. I can tell
you we had never been so glad to get back to basecamp. To cap it all off, a
truck carrying salmon had spilt fish oil north bound along the southern outlet.
This had made the road very slippery in the damp conditions and there had been
several major accidents in the last couple of days. Apparently you can't see
it, only smell it. So we rode home on tender hooks with sensitive noses - never
again!
Mount Wellington
Saturday, 3rd March
Finally
Mt Wellington showed its face! There was only one place to go - to the top of
the mountain. We took a quick look at the famous Salamanca markets on the way,
but they were busy and we aren't good shoppers.
The
road to the top is narrow, windy and very busy. However the traffic was well
behaved and it turned out to be a good ride, with plenty of chances to stop and
take in the views. Its amazing there isn't a cafe at the summit. Every other
opportunity to attract the tourist dollar seems to have been exhausted but not
that one. Perhaps its a good thing, however we would have enjoyed a cappuccino
sitting in a heated cafe - outside it was freezing!
Clifton Beach
Sunday, 4th March
We
dedicated Sunday to me. It was my day to visit all my old haunts. In doing so
it turned out to be quite a scenic ride too. I stopped and took photo's of my
old schools, and the house where I lived as a child. Then we had a picnic lunch
at Lauderdale Beach, followed by a stroll along Clifton Beach - I'm sure those
waves used to be bigger! In the afternoon Steve was off the hook and enjoying
ride number 69 out of The Bears book. I had afternoon tea with my old school
friend Margaret. Margaret and family were living in her Ma and Pa's old farm
house where I used to sleep-over as a child. What do you say to someone who you
have not been in contact with for 30 years? Not much really, however I enjoyed
being there, it was a spiritual thing.
Port Arthur
Monday, 5th March
We
nearly didn't go to Port Arthur. Maybe it was the weather, maybe just the mood
we were in, but we are very glad we did. The grounds and ruins are extensive
and we spent five hours wandering around the historic site. We skipped the
guided tour, just went under our own steam as there are plaques with snippets
of history everywhere. There is just so much to see, some of the buildings are
just shells, others have been completely renovated and are decorated in period
costume to set the scene. It is wonderful to see that funding is pouring in
from somewhere and the preservation of Port Arthur is in good hands.
It
is a scenic 93km ride from Hobart to Port Arthur. On the way there we stopped
to check out the convict built Denison Canal. On the way home, even though the
weather was against us, we stopped for a quick look at the Tasman Arch, the
Blow Holes and the Devils Kitchen. Every time we went to get back on the bike
it was a major "chamois job" and tempers got a little frayed.
 |
| Tessellated Pavement |
Despite
the rain I insisted we stop at the Tessellated Pavement. This was a place I had
fond memories of as a child. We managed to score five minutes of fine weather
to hop along the pavement. When the rain came again we took shelter under a
sandstone cliff. I sat down on a kind looking rock. For some reason I thought
"I wonder if there are any snakes around?" So I cast a quick glance
to the side and low and behold, less than one foot away was a brown snake! It
was just sitting there quietly. Never thought I could move so quick, or Steve,
and he had his wet weather pants down having a pee! We were happy to walk in
the rain after that. I do like the Tessellated Pavement, but I didn't want to
end my days there.
We
had a great evening meal in a pub in Sorell, which included brandy snaps, one
of my favourites. Then it was "home again, home again jiggity-jig."
 |
| Gordon Dam |
Tuesday, 6th March
Our
last day in Hobart and a fine one at that! We were hoping for a good day to do
the Hobart to Strathgordon ride, and here it was. It is 159km each way. You
have to re-trace your steps on this ride, but it is a pleasure, and it is
surprising how different the scenery can look on the return journey. We were on
our way early as a 300km trip in Tassie can mean quite a few hours on the road.
The cold, crisp morning had me signalling to Steve to stop so I could get the
circulation back in my hands. My gloves are not Tasmania proof and it was only
March!
The
road to Strathgordon is a delightful ride. It meanders through tiny towns which
hardly rate a mention on the map and beware, some of them may have run out of
fuel! There was plenty of road-kill which kept us on our toes, even a crow-bar
sat in the middle of the road - only in Tasmania.
There
were still protesters camped out on the road-side trying to save the trees. We
asked one of the locals about this as we thought all the remaining trees had
been saved. They explained that there is still 2-3% of the old growth forest in
danger of logging.
The
road was not too challenging in the fine weather which allowed us to relax a
little and enjoy the scenery as we rode along. At every opportunity we stopped
to pick blackberries. Steve is good at picking them and I am good at eating
them - what a team!
Apparently
there is a group of enthusiastic individuals who have a vision to
"undo" the damming of Lake Pedder and return the area to its original
glory. How wonderful it is to listen to people who dare to dream big.
As
we approached the Gordon River dam I found myself drawing breath at the sight
of the dead trees sticking up out of the water. It was like a grave yard and
the dead trees the grave stones. It is only because the water level is so low
that it looks like this.
On
the way home we gave thanks to the weather God. The ride to Strathgordon is one
of the best and we would like to do it again and again and again.
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