Wednesday 8 March 2023

Reflections of the South West

Hamelin Bay
Hamlin Bay

Margaret River reflections
Margaret River, Wooditjup National Park


The most difficult aspect of a motorcycle journey is leaving behind the comforts of home. As soon as I'm on the road, panniers mounted and Devil (BMW F650GS) looking more than two lanes wide, the dream of riding the open road comes alive again.



Kookaburra
Kookaburra

The first day's ride was a short 70km as we were staying at the Miami Caravan Park, in Falcon, so we could walk to a friend's 70th birthday bash. We took our time, enjoying morning tea overlooking beautiful Warnbro Sound, then we lunched at our favourite Thai restaurant in Mandurah before setting up camp around 3pm. Miami was all charm, if you can accept the ablutions cleaning schedule which begins, in the ladies main shower block, at 7am. I waddled over to 'B' block and all I can say is at least I know how it feels to shower in a MASH tent, my head sitting well above the stable door in the change area.


Margaret River Tourist Park
Margaret River Tourist Park


We were all packed up and on the road by 8am, trying to catch a few comfortable miles before the day warmed up too much. When you have recently lost a friend, in a motorcycle crash with a kangaroo, it makes you pay more attention on country roads. We took it easy along Estuary Road and by 9am we were drinking tea at Stirling Cottage, just outside Harvey. Then it was onwards and upwards to Wellington Dam. The Google Maps route took us across the dam wall but this road is still closed so we took a chance along River Road. When the road narrowed, I missed the "One Way" sign. I clawed my way along the narrowest piece of single lane, expecting to find someone coming the other way around the next bend; all the while Steve was wondering why I was going so slow.

Wadandi Track, Wooditjup National Park
Wanandi Track


We stopped for a while in the main street of Nannup, to hydrate, and then we rode the last stint to Margaret River. We made ourselves at home, amongst the grape pickers, on an unpowered tent site at the Tourist Park on Station Road.


The following day we enjoyed walking some of the trails through Wooditjup National Park. As we followed along what was once a railway track, you could nearly feel the old railway sleepers beneath the stones under our feet. The early morning reflections caught our attention, and it was easy to believe that The Margaret might be 100ft deep so vivid was the picture before us.


Hamelin Bay
Hamelin Bay


Back at camp a Swedish backpacker serenaded us with an original song. He had picked grapes in the morning and in the afternoon had spent three hours busking just off the main street of town. He said "I am working to buy myself some freedom."


A ride to Margs is not complete without spending some time riding the curves of beautiful Caves Road. The following morning we rode southwards to Hamlin Bay. When we arrived the Stingrays were visiting and many a beach goer ignored the warning signs and tried to get close-up and personal with the rays. Our friend's yacht, Edna May, was in the anchorage but we couldn't raise them as the mobile signal was patchy.


Cape Leeuwin

Cape Leeuwin lighthouse
Cape Leeuwin lighthouse
"Let's do something different," said Steve, so we trundled on to Cape Leeuwin and bought tickets to climb the lighthouse. The 176 step spiral staircase was strenuous on the way up, scary on the way down; great entertainment.


By the time we were ready to leave Margaret River we had walked the length and breadth of town a dozen times, checked out Cape Naturaliste, Meelup, Quindalup, Busselton, feasted on lamb ribs at Black Brewery, taken afternoon tea at The Chocolate Company, confirmed that the French Patisserie in Cowaramup is still the best and got caught out, on the road, in the tail end of a thunderstorm.

Cape Leeuwin lighthouse
Cape Leeuwin lighthouse - view to north

Maranup Ford Bike Rally 2023
Maranup Ford Bike Rally 2023


The best ride of them all was the day we left behind the hustle of Margaret River and Caves Road and found ourselves riding towards Pemberton. The road was clean and clear ahead and it seemed like we had found the open road once more. We joined in a motorcycle rally at Maranup Ford Caravan Park for the March long weekend. This is a BYO everything event. A thoroughly enjoyable gathering of classic and modern bikes, solos and sidecars. We were first timers for this rally but I noticed, as I rode towards home, I made a mental note to bring more beer next year and don't forget the bacon and eggs.

Maranup Ford Bike Rally 2023
Maranup Ford Bike Rally 2023

Stay safe, cheers Jane

Blackwood River, Maranup Ford
Blackwood River, Maranup Ford