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Sunday, 1st April
April
Fools Day! When we arrived in Adelaide our thoughts had turned to home and it
took quite some will power to stay as long as we did. Of course we are glad we
did stay as we had a great time. It didn't stop us from packing up our tent
with a smile on our faces, the open road beckoning once more.
Coming
from a sailing background, Steve and I have developed over the years a degree
of superstition - never go to sea on a Friday, always pass the port to the left
and so on. I am sure we would never in a million years have set sail from
Adelaide bound for Fremantle on April Fools Day, however, we were bikers now
and threw caution to the wind. On such a superstitious morning one can never be
completely off their guard!
We were
soon out of the city and retracing our steps through the beautiful Clare
Valley. We met a group of bikers in Clare, congregating for their Sunday ride.
We asked "how long will it take us to get to The Stone Hut bakery?"
They umm'd and ah'd between them before coming up with one and a half hours.
"That far" we said. Was this the April Fools joke we had to look out
for? "Looks like its going to be a late lunch then" said Steve. There
was no way we were falling for that one, buying lunch in the next town, only to
find the bakery turning up five kilometres down the road. The locals were
nearly right. We just built up a bigger appetite. I managed to scoff down a
custard tart too! We stopped for a cup of tea in Melrose, the main street
looking exactly as we had left it seven weeks before. Then it was through
Horrocks Pass once more and across the plains to Port Augusta. Our riding
skills had obviously improved as we were keeping up with the local traffic
easily.
We
pitched our tent for the last time in Port Augusta, and prayed for a dew free
night so that we could pack up the tent dry the following day. The last three
nights of our journey home would be spent in hard accommodation.
Monday, 2nd April
Our
prayers were answered! Well nearly! Only a light dew had fallen and the tent
quickly dried while we were having breakfast. It seemed surreal that we were
packing up the tent for the last time. We were on our way by 8:30am for a
pleasant, easy days run to Ceduna, only 468km away. At the fuel stop in Kimba
we met a couple of Ulyssians heading east, from WA's Joondalup branch. They
were on a Goldwing, towing a camper trailer. Their journey just beginning, ours
coming to an end. Our cabin at the Big4 in Ceduna was great. Our own toilet and
shower seemed a luxury we had forgotten existed. Of course we just had to have
one last seafood basket, they just aren't quite the same in WA.
Always happy to stop at the edge of Australia
Tuesday, 3rd April
Without
the tent to pack away we were showered, fed and ready to leave by 7am! It was
time to get some real miles under our belts, hoping to make Madura some 673km
away. It was a great riding day, not too hot, with a good following breeze,
which worked wonders for the fuel consumption. We will never forget the feeling
of riding on the open road, mile after mile with hardly a care in the world.
Noticing every scenic change, the Highway Heaven feeling so electric at times
it almost felt like a tangible thing.
Nullarbor Roadhouse |
It
was usually me who went and handed over the credit card when we had filled up
with fuel. I always enjoyed the brief exchanges I had with the colourful
characters who worked in the roadhouses. When we arrived at Nullarbor I was
delighted with the guy on duty. He wore a big cowboy hat together with a
leather waste coat and he really looked the part. It was a warm day, and I
don't know how he managed to keep the jacket on! I noticed right next to the
counter, creatures, carefully preserved in large pickle jars - scorpions,
spiders, snakes, and asked where they found them. He replied "I caught
most of them, usually first thing in the mornin', right there on the door
step!" Brought shivers down my spine just the thought of it. I was so
taken by this guy that he got a mention in a song I was writing.
When the days turn to winter and my spirit gets
restless,
Its time to hit the road for a month or three.
Don't look for nothin' special,
Just a chance to find my soul
And meet that fancy dude at the Nullarbor tree!
We
were making good time when we arrived at Eucla, so we rode on the extra 180km
to Madura. The strong following breeze stayed with us all day and it sure made
for comfortable riding. In the motel room next door to us was a cyclist, riding
from east to west. The strong easterly wind had helped him cover the 180km
between Eucla and Madura in one day! We stuck to some good old truckie tucker
for dinner and settled in to watch TV before falling easily to sleep.
Wednesday, 4th April
We
were up and away with just a cup of coffee to sustain us until Caiguna, 155km
away. A dense fog had descended on Madura overnight, however it was very
localised, and the air was clear as soon as we were out of the valley. Caiguna
was only one and a half hours away, and when we arrived, we were delighted with
the sight of all those trucks parked outside. We knew we were going to get a
good bacon and egg sandwich! One thing you have to get used to at the
roadhouses, there are prices for truckies, and prices for everyone else. No
prizes for guessing who pays the most!
The
46km of road works east of Balladonia gave us plenty of opportunity to stretch
our legs when it was our turn to let the traffic through. We had made it all
the way to Norseman by 2:30pm, 521km behind us. We stopped at the BP roadhouse
for fuel and the comfort of the air conditioned cafe, as the day had warmed up
considerably. We spent some time admiring the exhibition of old pioneering
photographs. Norseman is a real staging post for travellers heading both east
and west. I looked across at the motel where we had spent our first night, and
thought "I hope it isn't too long before we pass this way again." But
there was no time for sentiment, Kalgoorlie still 190km away! We finally
reached Kalgoorlie at 5pm. We pulled into the first caravan park we came to.
Booked into a self contained unit and enjoyed a good cold beer or two, before walking
into town for an "all you can eat" pizza and roast night, excellent
value.
Thursday, 5th April
It
isn't all over until the fat lady sings and she sure sung loud and clear on our
last day. I left my riding jacket in the caravan park office while we were
booking in. Unfortunately we didn't notice it was missing until we were ready
to leave. Our first thought was that it had been stolen while we were
unloading! Despite polite efforts to contact the office after 7am, and staff
arriving at 7:30am, they didn't want to give us the jacket until opening time
at 8am! They reluctantly gave Steve the jacket after he stood outside the
office looking like thunder. We won't be staying there again! It was going to
be a hot day and it hadn't started well. I managed to turn some of the anger to
creativity and penned this little ditty while riding along:
They must do good tucker at the Yellowdine Roadhouse,
There are more truckies than the eye can see.
Must mark it on my road map and write it in my diary,
Next year when I'm travlin' I will stop for tea.
My little Pink Panther mascot has
travelled with me for 25 years
We
rode on and on. The last mile home can often seem the longest. We got soaked in
an isolated thunderstorm as we left Mundaring, and the heavy Easter weekend
traffic tested our patience one more time! We finally arrived home at 6:45pm.
To
celebrate our home coming there was a huge pile of mail to wade through, the
burglar alarm kept going off every two hours, the toilet kept filling up and
the blinds kept falling down. As if to say "Welcome back, Steve and Jane,
welcome back!"
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