Saturday, 1 May 2010

Go Slow

Ulysses AGM, Albany, Western Australia
Grand Parade, Ulysses AGM, Albany

In March 2011 we attended the Ulysses AGM in Albany, Western Australia. Not too far for us, only 450 kilometres down the road. We enjoyed the event, especially test riding several bikes. For a while we had been thinking of swapping our trusty Japanese cruisers for some dual purpose bikes. The AGM allowed us to try several options but confirmed our decision to stick with our current bikes for the upcoming trip. Me on my Yamaha Vstar 650 and Steve on his 1500 Kawasaki Vulcan.

We returned home for about a month, to finalise everything before heading off on a four month journey. Oh, nearly forgot, during this month we purchased a trailer sailer and rejoined the local sailing club. We managed to organised storage for the new yacht at the club even before our membership was approved. Luckily, the bloke making all the decisions on whether to allow the boat to stay at the club was a fellow rider. Sometimes we wonder why we put so much pressure on ourselves.

After a farewell dinner at a friend’s house we finely got away on 20th April 2010. Our plan was to “go slow”, taking plenty of time to see the sites along the way. Hopefully, follow the Murray River, then head north keeping inland a bit to savour the roads along the Great Dividing Range. We planned on trying to get as far north as possible, then back west via Mount Isa, Alice Springs and Ayers Rock. First we had to cross the paddock, again.

With our “go slow” plan in action we took a few back roads from home in Rockingham until we reached Merredin. Then you have to go along the highway if you want to head east on the black stuff. While refuelling, the garage attendant informed us that there had been an earthquake in Kalgoorlie. She had no details but said very little traffic had come west since. This was our first piece of misinformation for the trip. There had been an earthquake, luckily no injuries and nowhere near the highway. We were thinking of our previous trip, when we took the southern route via Esperance at the same time as the Great Eastern Highway was closed due to fire.

The first night was spent at Southern Cross. The second day was uneventful and the night spent at Balladonia. We had never stayed here before as we normally do more kilometres per day. So, second day and we are still sticking to our “go slow” plan. There were a couple of interesting truckies at Balladonia. First one was coming west and spent a while cleaning his truck, covered in locusts, a sign of things to come. He gave us some special stuff to remove them, but later, we found that it also removes all polish. Not the stuff for our shiny cruisers. The other truckie was eastward bound in a brand new truck, with great Aprilla graphics. The truck contained seven brand new bikes and was heading off to start a tour doing test rides. We couldn’t convince the driver to unload and give us a go!

Ecula - WA/SA Border
Eucla - WA/SA Border

Next day we made it to the border. Once again, we had never stayed at Eucla and we wanted to try the restaurant overlooking the Great Australian Bight, which has fresh fish caught by the local fisherman. It was pretty good, especially considering how far we were from civilisation. Next morning it was raining. On the last trip across this part of the world we had 47 degrees, this time rain. Most people complain about the wind but so far we have been lucky on that score.

Next night was Ceduna, with its mouse plague. We saw plenty of mice around the camp ground and the town. The next morning while packing up the tent we found a couple of the little mongrels had started building a nest under the tent. We couldn’t get out of there fast enough.

Nice gentle ride to Port Augusta, where we had decided to stay for a couple of nights. We had always just stayed one night here in the past. We visited the botanical gardens and the sights of the town. We quite like the place.

Kawasaki Vulcan, Yamaha Vstar with Emus
Give way to Emus
On the road toward the Flinders Ranges


Next stop was the Wilpena Pound in Finders Range. Our first taste of locusts! Apparently they are ok on pizza, but we declined the offer! We loved the Flinders and on this occasion it would have been nice to have the dual sport bikes that we had been thinking off. The road from Wilpena through the national park to Blinman is now sealed and it is a terrific road. Fantastic scenery, lots of elevation changes and loads of wide open curves. One of the all time best roads we have ridden. Just watch out for some of the creek crossing, they can have steep entrances and exits and may have wash-outs after rain.


Next stop after the Finders was Peterborough, so we could visit the bike museum established in an old church. What a great place to create a bike museum! Wonder what they ride in heaven? The museum had a nice collection of small capacity European bikes. We just wish we had known that you could stay at the museum in the attached Bed and Breakfast. The room looked great and the owners were terrific. We will have to wait till next time.


Peterborough Motorcycle Museum, South Australia
Peterborough Motorcycle Museum

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