2020 Ulysses Odyssey

Red Dwarf & Red Devil at Castle Bay

As we found room for the last minute things in the loaded panniers I was reminded of our nights on the Nullarbor Plain, with the first signs of light appearing in the eastern sky and Red Devil (F650GS) and Red Dwarf (R1200GS) itching to be underway. As soon as we pulled out of the driveway I tuned into the commentary inside my head and it wasn't long before I heard a little voice say "beware of the extra weight when stopping."

Steve found a nice rest area on the edge of Waroona and we drank tea and ate fruit and felt happy to be on our way to the 2020 Ulysses Odyssey at Taunton Farm.

Wellington Dam

The bikes found their way to Wellington Dam, the temperature sitting hard on 15⁰C but it felt more like 10. Abseilers were spray cleaning the dam wall in preparation for mural artist, Guido Van Helten, to paint one of the most stunning murals we are ever likely to see. Then The Big Apple Bakery lured us to Donnybrook for a good pie and a cup of tea. Unfortunately our departure from Donnybrook was slightly delayed while we tried to wash the copious amounts of chicken satay out of the sleeve of Steve's clean jumper.

From Donnybrook we rode on through Nannup and then Mowen Road took us to Margaret River. The cops were waiting for us on the outskirts of town but we were behaving ourselves and just cruised on through the endless detours and we were setting up the tent at Taunton Farm by 2:30pm. By the time we had lived through the case of the missing hammer, and then the case of the missing shoe, we were ready for a beer so we joined a group of Ulysseans in the campers farm shed where we talked of past Odysseys and great bike roads before turning in for an early night.

Taunton Farm

The group ride on Saturday morning took us south along beautiful Caves Road to Augusta. Our speed was regulated by a succession of tin tops but it gave us time to enjoy the trees and the curves. We heard a rumour that they are planning to close parts of Caves Road. While I rode along I gave thanks that I have had the privilege of riding one of Western Australia's great motorcycle roads before they take it away from us.

Is this George or Malcolm?

The group ride continued on to Nannup while some folks stayed in Augusta and enjoyed fresh bronzie (Bronze Whaler shark) and chips overlooking the Hardy Inlet. Then we rode Caves Road once more before heading back to the farm for dinner. We dined under the stars while a good Margaret River band played into the night. We'd crashed by 9pm and didn't hear the band play their final set.

Taunton Farm is a great location for a getaway. I particularly enjoyed the farm animals, George and Malcolm Crackling (resident pigs), Rex (retired stallion), Peanuts (the biggest steer ever) and the peculiar looking Irish miniature donkey, who came with papers to prove his worth although questions have been asked by inquisitive farm quests.

We took the scenic route

On Sunday Steve tested his navigation skills while he found his way along some back roads to Dunsborough. We waddled out to the whale watching lookout at Cape Naturalist and were rewarded with a sighting of a Southern Right blowing in the distance. Steve wasn't done with the back roads and after lunch he found another set to take us back to the comfort of Taunton Farm.

We dined under the stars once more with the fire pit blazing. Many volunteers give their all to make events like our Western Australian Odyssey happen, thanks a million guys and gals for a really great weekend.

Pre-dawn at Taunton Farm

The ride following the Blackwood River along the Balingup Nannup Road was a treat on the way home. As we cruised through Waroona, I glanced across at the rest area where we had stopped for refreshments on the way down. Part of me wished I could turn the clock back to that moment when the weekend had only just begun; until next time.... 

Ride to Busselton Odyssey 2014

Loaded to capacity, Red Devil (my BMW F650GS) and Red Dwarf (Steve’s BMW R1200GS) pulled out of our driveway early on a glorious spring morning. Before the first roundabout I had a bee splatter across the face of my visor to remind us that it was the time of year when bees and bugs are on the move. Steve chose a red light on the freeway entrance to adjust the suspension setting on the big GS. When the light turned green Dwarf wasn't ready to go and I sighed loudly inside my helmet.

Frankland River, Muir Highway.

We were soon free from the bustle of freeway traffic and as we cruised up the hill to Dwellingup I felt a gentle calm begin to settle the senses. There were a dozen bikers enjoying breakfast at the town cafe but I didn't look up to see who noticed my over revving engine as I struggled with a hill start under the weight of Devils pay load.

The Lower Hotham Road beckoned and we rode onwards through the fields and the lanes. At one point I was delighted with a fragrance so sweet I looked for the "cellar door sales" but there was none.

The strong northerly breeze had fetched small branches from the trees and we kept a good lookout as we rode along. We stopped for tea in Darkan and then we rode on, finding our way along these quiet country roads until we were spat out onto the highway about five kilometres north of Kojonup town bakery.

After devouring a chocolate éclair the size of a riding boot, we took a moment to clean the bugs from our visors before saddling up once more. The highway ride south to Mt Barker gave me a chance to check on Devil's fuel economy and sure enough she was enjoying the strong northerly wind. By midafternoon the bikes were taking a well earned rest and we were drinking tea at our weekender at Porongurup.

Kombana Bay Caravan Park, Bunbury.

We spent three relaxing days hiding from the rain by day and enjoying the warmth of the pot belly stove by night. With the weather closing in it was hard to leave the comfort of the cabin for life on the road with just the bikes and our little tent. We hoped to spend a couple of nights at Margaret River before heading to Busselton for the 2014 Odyssey but by the time we rode into Manjimup a grey mist had settled on the town and showed no sign of clearing. We walked out of the town bakery wearing full wet weather gear and started riding north. Riding in the rain isn't a problem once you're fully kitted up, it's the indecision of whether to wear the wet weather gear that's tiring. Camping in the rain is more of a challenge, especially in a small tent, so we decided to ride on until we found some fairer weather. There are dry town and wet towns, sometimes only a few kilometres apart. The rain was still with us as we rode into Bridgetown, so we kept riding northwards until we reached Bunbury. We made camp at Koombana Bay Caravan Park and wined and dined our way along the cafe strip until it was time to head to Busselton for the Odyssey.

I seem to make a habit of attracting police cars when I'm riding my motorcycle and one hopped onto my back wheel as we rode out of Bunbury. This guy followed me from one speed limit change to another on the road to Donnybrook. Devil and I were meticulous with the speed we were making because we both knew that one false move and we'd be slapped with double demerit points and a whopping fine as it was the start of a long weekend. We didn't shake off this dude until we settled on 100km/h in a 110km zone; that got rid of him.

All apple pie lovers should stop at the Apple Pie bakery in Donnybrook and treat themselves to a high-top apple pie made with fresh apples. These pies are so big that even Steve couldn't manage to eat two. Donnybrook was our last stop before making our way to Busselton for the Odyssey. We are home now, the Odyssey weekend was great and we are looking for an excuse to ride to Donnybrook again.

Canal Rocks, 2014 Ulysses Odyssey, group ride.

Ulysses Odyssey - Denmark 2012



Five Beemers in a row.

Luckily by Friday of the Ulysses Odyssey weekend, the hail was gone and the skies had cleared the way for a good ride to Denmark. We were up at 5am and on our way by 8am. Ten minutes later we were stopped on the side of the road, re-balancing the Red Devil’s luggage as the tent had been tied on top of the wrong pannier. I was thinking of soldiering on, but the F650GS was complaining, rather loudly, every time I stopped. Then we were off, wind in our hair and the heated grips on full bore. We stopped for a TaT (Tea and Toilet) just outside Harvey. In an act of pure frustration, for causing me to ask for assistance to deploy my side stand, I had the Red Devil’s camel toe (side stand extension plate) ceremoniously removed right there and then in the car park.

We were in Bridgetown for lunch, shivering into our cup-a-soup and sheltering from the fine mist that had descended on the valley. We rode on through Manjimup and Walpole, the tall trees distracting our minds from the freezing maximum temperature. In the end we were riding in our full wet weather gear to prevent the cold from seeping right through to the bone. By 3:30pm we were at the Odyssey venue. I spent some time fussing over whether the Red Devil was sinking into the soft grass; perhaps the camel toe had been removed rather prematurely! Then I served tea as someone had forgotten to pack the bottle of port. The Ocean Beach Holiday Park is a great facility, with a well appointed camp kitchen and spotless ablutions, where no one has to queue.

We headed into town for an early dinner and managed to snag the last table at the local Indian restaurant. As we sipped a glass of local wine, a master chef served Onion Bhaji, Seekh Kebab, Lamb and Lentils and a Kashmiri Naan to die for; all at a reasonable price too. A couple of coppers had set a trap on the highway, but they let us off as we rode home; there was nothing to worry about anyway.

We slept like babies in the simplicity of our little tent. The dawn chorus gave us permission to get out of bed at 6am, the camp kitchen making an ideal escape from the cold morning air. Over breakfast we caught up with many an adventure and at 9am we joined an unofficial ride into Albany. We easily devoured a cake and coffee on York Street before making our way to the Boston Brewery. At the brewery we spent a torturous couple of hours, drinking orange juice, too scared to sample the full strength beers just in case the unthinkable happened on the way home; the Red Devil would never forgive me.

 

Ocean Beach Holiday Park, Denmark.

Saturday night saw us all warm and cosy in the mess tent. The Great Southern Branch worked tirelessly to cook and feed 250 people; it never fails to amaze me the achievements of volunteers. Some of us went to bed early while others enjoyed the quiz night. Even the “early to bed dudes” had fun testing their knowledge, as the questions and answers could be heard from 100m away.







Sunday ride to Walpole.

Sunday’s group ride was wonderful, taking in some of the sights and lanes around Denmark. The only mistake we made was not stopping at the toffee factory or the ice creamery or the chocolate shop on the way home; all three would have been a very good idea.

Cleverly the “cook your own” Sunday BBQ came ready to serve and we were once more fed by the tireless workers in the camp kitchen; thanks a million Great Southern Branch.

It was with a heavy heart that we packed up our little tent; the weekend had come and gone so quickly. I said to Steve, as we tied the tent onto the left pannier, “if I could I would live this weekend all over again.” That’s a sure sign we had a good time.

Leaving the Porongurups, a few days after the Odyssey.



Ulysses Odyssey 2011 - Wagin

The catering officer looked after us on our ride to the 2011 Odyssey in Wagin. Steve found the Pinjarra bakery for morning tea, and served a homemade sandwich, a crisp apple and a strong brew of coffee for lunch in Williams. By 1pm we were riding into the little outback town; early enough to select the best camp site at the Wagin Show grounds. Luckily there were no birds roosting in our tree and the tent remained clean all weekend!

Our little three man tent was pitched in one fluid motion, and when I went inside, to release the self inflating mattresses and pillows, the rustic smell took me straight back to my childhood, where I liked nothing more than to play inside a small tent during the school holidays. As soon as the tent was up, the billy was on and Steve and I kicked back, in our large camp chairs, entertained by each and every new arrival.

The focal point of the campsite was two wonderful camp fires, which were kept smouldering or blazing depending on the time of day. As soon as the sun was past the yard arm, we wandered down to the meeting place, with a beer and some biltong, and listened to a few yarns about the morning’s ride. At sunset we strolled into town for a steak and a pint. The dining room was full so we snuggled into the front bar, which was noisy, but the locals were friendly, and we had a great time. Our little tent was warm and dry and we slept like babies, for we had nothing to worry about and everything we needed; food, shelter and the bikes parked right outside!

On Friday morning Steve and I hung out at the town cafe. We sat on the pavement in the most comfortable chairs ever afforded to us at a street cafe. The food was good and cheap. Just goes to show, there is many a country town to be found on the road less travelled.

The Friday afternoon ride was fun and it is always enjoyable to watch a train of bikes meandering along a lonely country road. We were home in time for another camp fire happy hour, followed by the first communal dinner – the local swimming club did the town proud feeding us a roast dinner nearly as good as mum makes.

On Saturday we rode to Narrogin with the promise of morning tea laid on by the CWA. It made me smile when I noticed several riders checking their iPhones before stepping back in time for some good old country women’s hospitality. Then we browsed the wares at the local spring fair before riding home again.

The Saturday night dinner was accompanied by some entertaining conversation about aliens and nudist camps, most of us not believing in either! A predominately male Karaoke bar showcased some good singing and a lot of courage. I just couldn’t think of a cover song to sing!

The last night in our little tent was as sweet as the first. As I sipped my coffee and licked my wind burnt lips in the early morning light, I had a vision of me and Steve riding into the rising sun. We were on our way to Mildura for the 2012 AGM. Now that would be a good ride!