Tuesday 20 March 2007

Melbourne F1 Grand Prix

Melbourne Formula One Grand Prix (F1 GP) Australia
Maybe not a real Ferrari!


Tuesday, 13th March

So here we were back in Melbourne. By the time we had cleared quarantine and collected our gas bottle it was 8am - peak hour. We taped our directions to the caravan park to our wind shields and off we went. Melbourne drivers although a little impatient are polite and they will let you in when you indicate. It was a very pleasant and entertaining ride even though it did take an hour to cover only 10km. We were staying in Melbourne for the week of festivities surrounding the F1 GP. The caravan park was large and clean with an excellent camp kitchen not far from our camp site. We paid our dues and settled in for the hustle and bustle that is city entertainment.

 

Chinatown Melbourne Australia
Chinatown Melbourne

Wednesday, 14th March

It is more difficult than you think to organise a bike service at short notice. Most places spoke of a three week waiting period. Luckily we had posted a message on the Ulysses website forum asking for recommendations. We had one reply - "go to Charlie, he will fix you up without taking an arm and a leg in the process." Charlie is Chinese and works nearly exclusively on Triumphs. Bikers come from far and wide for a little of his magic. When Steve phoned, Charlie said he was very busy but would fit us in if we could leave the bikes for a few days. So that's what we did, we took the bikes to Charlie. When he saw my bike he played with the throttle and said "this no good, your hand goes numb right?" "yes" I said to which he replied "I fix for you no charge!" Then he pulled at the clutch, "no good," then the back brake. "This bike never set up for you, I will fix, when you come back, like new bike." So we left our bikes and Charlie to his own devices. Too scared to say "no" and secretly afraid that we might not like the outcome!

The rest of the day we spent in Melbourne, enjoying a banquet lunch in China Town and taking in the city sites. Melbourne certainly has a lot of character, we loved it.

 

Melbourne Formula One Grand Prix (F1 GP) Australia
Arriving at Albert Park

Thursday, 15th March

Our first day at the F1 track. The F1 circus lasts four days. It starts on Thursday and ends on Sunday. Unfortunately it took nearly two hours to get to the track. Partly because we were travelling in peak hour, and partly because the journey comprised of a good walk and then two tram rides. We just settled in for the duration - what else can you do? Once we excepted that it was out of our control it was quite relaxing and interesting to watch inner Melbourne go gently by.

When its only day one of a four day event it's important to pace yourself. It's all about being there and not exhausting yourself in the process. Thursday is a day of support races, the F1 cars do not take to the track. Fortunately our seat was in the shade until noon. After that it was impossible to sit there when the sun came out from behind the clouds, it must have been 45oC in the stand. Despite the heat, we wandered around "side show alley" and the pits of the supporting classes. The atmosphere was fantastic.

Friday, 16th March

We just made it to the track in time for the first F1 practice! Today we were in the Fangio stand, nicely situated opposite the pit area where there is always something going on. Luckily Melbourne cooled down and presented us with nearly 100% cloud cover. The temperature in the stand was quite comfortable. We spent a very pleasant day in and around our allocated seat. We always take a packed lunch - no "track tucker" for us. We went back to basecamp early enough to enjoy a home cooked meal. Eating out is great but not all the time.

 

Melbourne Formula One Grand Prix (F1 GP) Australia
Ferrari fanatics

Saturday, 17th March

Saturday is qualifying day. With the absence of the 9 to 5'ers it was a much quicker journey to the track.

Qualifying is a very exciting process of elimination. The F1 cars take to the track in three sessions of fifteen minutes each. After session one only the fastest 15 drivers continue. After session two only the fastest 10 go to session three. This is how the grid positions are decided. The process is probably more exciting than the race itself.

Before qualifying started, in the hope of improving the odds, we both placed a quinella bet for the race result. Steve went for Massa and Fisichella and I went for Alonso and Button. I can tell you now, we both bombed big time!

For dinner we treated ourselves to another banquet in China Town - this is the life!

 

Melbourne Formula One Grand Prix (F1 GP) Australia
Track side, after the GP

Sunday, 18th March

Race day. Quite frankly I find the race itself a bit of an anti-climax. When the F1 cars take up their places on the grid the event seems all but over. The race itself seems to pay merely lip service to the three days before. Don't get me wrong, it's still good to be there for the race, but it isn't the reason for going. Fortunately it was another mild day and we sat happily in the Brabham Stand, on the first corner, hoping for our share of the action.

When the race was over we stayed awhile, watching the press conference on the big screen. The punters in the corporate stand behind us seemed oblivious to what was going on - most of them are not real fans. Then we went down onto the track to be with the real fans, all 76,000 of them it seemed! We clicked a few more photos through the fence at the scrutineering yard and then headed home. For dinner an old Italian guy made us a pizza with his bare hands - ever likely it tasted so good. We had done a Melbourne F1 GP. Would we do it again - you bet ya!

 

Melbourne Formula One Grand Prix (F1 GP) Australia
Those were the day

Monday, 19th March

Our last day in Melbourne and time to get our bikes back. We spent the morning in town. Still caught up in the hype, Steve bought a Mark Webber cap. It was on sale for $35! I got a Williams denim jacket for only $20 - now that was a bargain. For lunch we had to have one last Souvlaki (kebab). Such delicious flavours and made with real meat - they don't make them like that in the west.

Charlie had our bikes ready and waiting for us. He concluded "when you riding across Nullarbor you will be saying, thank you Charlie, bike like new and no more wanker grip!" He was right, we will never forget Charlie.


Melbourne Formula One Grand Prix (F1 GP) Australia
Post race party


Monday 12 March 2007

Up the East Coast

Richmond Bridge, Tasmania
Richmond Bridge


Wednesday, 7th March

Our week was up and it was time to move on again. Despite the weather being against us we had done most of the things we wanted to do. Perhaps I was denied a walk along Lauderdale beach but we hadn't done too badly. To me the magical views of Hobart from Mt Wellington belies the atmosphere on the ground. I thought this thirty years ago and nothing had changed my mind.

The Gulch, Bicheno


We packed up our tent and were on our way by 9am, Bicheno our next port of call. It was a little early to sample a scallop pie when we arrived at the bakery in Richmond, but the plain, chunky steak variety, no problem! It was an easy ride, the road quite open and fast on Tasmanian standards. Unfortunately the following day there was an accident just outside Bicheno involving two motorcycles. Both visitors too.

At $16 a night the campsite at Bicheno was one of the best and cheapest so far. We had the tent set up in record time and wandered into town for a look at the anchorage. There was a heavy easterly swell rolling in and the fishing boats were chomping at the bit. A Bad looking anchorage always makes Steve and I swallow hard, we can't help it.

 

Thursday, 8th March

The exciting but exhausting process of visiting old friends had left us feeling tired and weary. We had originally planned to walk to the Wineglass Bay lookout in the Freycinet National Park. Apparently its a three hour return amble up and down some 600 steps. The poor weather forecast was the only excuse we needed not to go! We cleaned our bikes in the morning and in the afternoon went for an easy ride to Coles Bay. It was too cold to sit outside and enjoy our home-made coffee so we relaxed in the cosy Coles Bay Cafe instead. Horses for courses! The views were splendid. There were a few yachts in the bay, pitching about in the freshening westerly breeze. We just smiled, pleased we were travelling by motorcycle! Apparently Coles Bay is the first town in Tasmania to adopt a 'no plastic' policy - or so they said!

 

Derby General Store, Tasmania
Derby General Store

Friday, 9th March

Our last weekend in Tassie just happened to fall on a long weekend. Call it what you like but "bad planning" comes immediately to mind. With the incredible pressure on camping facilities in the summer school holidays and long weekends, we had to take up residence in the next caravan park for three nights - the remainder of our stay. This meant the caravan park had to be close enough to Devonport so we could reach the ferry on Monday, even if the weather turned against us. We picked Beauty Point, 47km north of Launceston. This left us a very long ride if we wanted to take the scenic route from Bicheno. There seemed no other route worth taking so it was "one oil barrel at a time," and the first oil barrel happened to be a pancake at the Mount Elephant Pancakes Of Tasmania cafe!

We twisted and turned up the Elephant Pass looking out for the pancake parlour around every corner until there it was - the most unforgiving driveway we had ever seen. Very steep and covered in loose gravel with ruts where the water had run off. Some motorcycles were dangerously parked on the road. Steve took his bike down and then came back for mine. Getting out was no problem.

After we had eaten our fill it would have been nice if the road had straightened out for a few kilometres. Bad luck kiddo - prepare yourself for the descent of the newly resurfaced St Mary's Pass. This kept us focussed and burping for a while!

The Sideling Lookout, Tasmania
Lookout at The Sideling


We rode on and on, admiring the scenery and stopping for a pee every now and then. The towns of St Helens and Scottsdale were quickly out of view - there was no time to stop on this ride.

The descent of The Sideling, one of the stages of the Targa Tasmania Rally, tested our riding skills once more and we were both pleased to see Launceston come into view soon after. You don't realise what a sleepy little hollow Tasmania really is until you ride into the second biggest city on the Friday afternoon of a long weekend!

The final leg to Beauty Point seemed to take forever even though the road had gentle curves and was quite fast. It had been another good day in the saddle, however we did feel our age when we pitched our tent that night.

 

Beauty Point, Tasmania
Beauty Point

Saturday, 10th March

We were exhausted from the day before. An unpleasant encounter when the kids next door started throwing stones added to our lethargy. Their dad was most upset with the terms of phrase Steve used. Later the girls were sent over to apologise, leaving it all forgiven but not forgotten! So we rested, until one of our chairs gave up the ghost. We had no option but to make a trip to Beaconsfield for a new one. Beaconsfield is a very sleepy little town, we bought the last chair they had! They may have a gold mine but a seven day a week internet cafe - no way!

In the afternoon we trundled down to Green Point for an ice-cream. We met a guy on a Harley Davidson visiting from Melbourne. He said he comes over most years for a burn around the island. We would too if it wasn't so far away.

 

Sunday, 11th March

Feeling well rested and recuperated we went riding, despite the overcast conditions and the forecast of rain. The roads are so lovely and quiet you really have to experience Tasmania to believe it. We crossed the Tamar River at the first opportunity and took the back roads through Lilydale to Scottsdale and then on to Bridport for a picnic lunch. The day brightened up and the riding was great. It does however remain a mystery how ride 62 made in into The Bears book. It seemed a very straight and boring run to us. After doing so many great roads, the bar has been raised and all rides have a lot to measure up to!

 

Yacht careened at Port Sorell, Tasmania
Yacht careened at Port Sorell

Monday, 12th March

Steve's big toe had an argument with one of our large tent pegs and guess what? - Steve lost! The tow was twice its normal size within minutes. We thought it was broken. We also thought Steve might not be able to get his riding boots on. We got the ice onto it immediately and began mumbling things about "not being able to ride" and "at least we had five good weeks." Steve sat quietly while I fussed around making sure the toe bath was no warmer than 1oC! After an hour in and out of iced water Steve was ready to hobble about for a while. We packed up the tent, loaded the trailer and then like a real trooper on went the boots. Those creatures from Mars can certainly withstand certain types of pain more easily than their cousins on Venus! Luckily it was Steve's right foot. If it had been the left, the one than changes gears, the trip would have been over.

Motorcycles loading onto the Spirit of Tasmania
On ramp to Spirit of Tasmania


We took the back roads to Port Sorell before arriving in Devonport early afternoon. We found a picnic area where Steve could rest and get his toe back into some ice. It was turning black now. What a mess. The public holiday meant everywhere was closed. We did manage to kill an hour checking the emails - there certainly is a lot of hanging around to do when catching a night-time ferry.

Finally it was time to take our place in the queue. All the bikes, maybe 40 of them, were together and the atmosphere was great. Most of the bikers were Victorians, dressed in full leathers and riding sports bikes. They had come over for the long weekend. Before long we were on the ferry, together this time. The bikes were secured and we were dining in the galley on Spirit of Tasmania. Our Tassie sojourn over for now.

Tuesday 6 March 2007

Hobart

Hobart

Wednesday, 28th February

Luckily it remained dry while we packed up and made ready to leave once more. Today we were heading for Hobart only 130km away. After a 30 year absence I was very excited. Five minutes down the road we were riding in light drizzle and the rain stayed with us nearly all the way. We had fog while winding our way down the steep, twisty Tarraleah Valley. It was tough riding but a challenge we both enjoyed. By the time we arrived in Hamilton we felt we had earned our morning tea.

We managed to find room in an adequate caravan park in Berridale, only 8km north of Hobart. In between the showers we set up camp right on the banks of the Derwent River. In the distance to the left was the Cadburys chocolate factory, to the right and next door a sewage works - charming! With people to see and old haunts to revisit, we made ourselves at home in Hobart for a week.

 

Victoria Dock, Tasmania
Victoria Dock

Thursday, 1st March

When we woke up it was still drizzling. Mt Wellington, which towers over old Hobart Town was still lost in the cloud. It seemed like a good day to do the Cadburys Chocolate Factory tour, so we booked in and off we went. The best part of the tour was probably access to the "seconds" shop. We stocked up on brunch bars and peppermint flakes to the point where we could eat them two at a time and not notice the pile going down! There we were, growing old disgracefully again, and increasing our girth at the same time!

The rain persisted so in the afternoon we went to the maritime museum, which included a wonderful exhibition on Antarctica. Best of all it was free! It had been a good day. To cap it all off, the weather was kind enough to allow us to stay dry on the short ride back to camp.

 

Friday, 2nd March

We woke up to a bleak morning, in the afternoon we had commitments to visit friends. In our optimism we decided to make a day of it and take the scenic B68 road which takes you south of Hobart, through Woodbridge and Cygnet and onto Huonville. By 10am we had aborted the ride. The rain had set in, and there was no point in a scenic ride because you couldn't see anything as the cloud was so low.

We had been told that visitors are welcome at the Antarctic Division headquarters in Kingston. We were only a couple of kilometres away so we stopped, mainly to warm up with a cup of coffee. However we were treated to the full-on guided tour with a friend of a friend, and spent four hours learning a little more about Australia's remotest outpost. It rained the whole time we were there. Eventually we had to leave so we could reach our first engagement on time.

The road from Hobart to Huonville would be a great ride on a nice dry day but like any good road, "when they are good they are very very good, but when they are bad they are horrid." The locals still motor along and we were given the hurry-up by an empty logging truck which didn't make it a comfortable ride.

It was great to catch up with old friends. We couldn't stay long as we had another engagement to attend to! A much more traumatic affair visiting our sailing friend Else, whose husband Tod had passed away at the end of 2006. I can tell you we had never been so glad to get back to basecamp. To cap it all off, a truck carrying salmon had spilt fish oil north bound along the southern outlet. This had made the road very slippery in the damp conditions and there had been several major accidents in the last couple of days. Apparently you can't see it, only smell it. So we rode home on tender hooks with sensitive noses - never again!

 

Mount Wellington, Hobert, Tasmania
Mount Wellington

Saturday, 3rd March

Finally Mt Wellington showed its face! There was only one place to go - to the top of the mountain. We took a quick look at the famous Salamanca markets on the way, but they were busy and we aren't good shoppers.

The road to the top is narrow, windy and very busy. However the traffic was well behaved and it turned out to be a good ride, with plenty of chances to stop and take in the views. Its amazing there isn't a cafe at the summit. Every other opportunity to attract the tourist dollar seems to have been exhausted but not that one. Perhaps its a good thing, however we would have enjoyed a cappuccino sitting in a heated cafe - outside it was freezing!

 

Clifton Beach, Hobart, Tasmania
Clifton Beach

Sunday, 4th March

We dedicated Sunday to me. It was my day to visit all my old haunts. In doing so it turned out to be quite a scenic ride too. I stopped and took photo's of my old schools, and the house where I lived as a child. Then we had a picnic lunch at Lauderdale Beach, followed by a stroll along Clifton Beach - I'm sure those waves used to be bigger! In the afternoon Steve was off the hook and enjoying ride number 69 out of The Bears book. I had afternoon tea with my old school friend Margaret. Margaret and family were living in her Ma and Pa's old farm house where I used to sleep-over as a child. What do you say to someone who you have not been in contact with for 30 years? Not much really, however I enjoyed being there, it was a spiritual thing.

 

Port Arthur, Tasmania
Port Arthur

Monday, 5th March

We nearly didn't go to Port Arthur. Maybe it was the weather, maybe just the mood we were in, but we are very glad we did. The grounds and ruins are extensive and we spent five hours wandering around the historic site. We skipped the guided tour, just went under our own steam as there are plaques with snippets of history everywhere. There is just so much to see, some of the buildings are just shells, others have been completely renovated and are decorated in period costume to set the scene. It is wonderful to see that funding is pouring in from somewhere and the preservation of Port Arthur is in good hands.

It is a scenic 93km ride from Hobart to Port Arthur. On the way there we stopped to check out the convict built Denison Canal. On the way home, even though the weather was against us, we stopped for a quick look at the Tasman Arch, the Blow Holes and the Devils Kitchen. Every time we went to get back on the bike it was a major "chamois job" and tempers got a little frayed.

Tessellated Pavement, Tasmania
Tessellated Pavement


Despite the rain I insisted we stop at the Tessellated Pavement. This was a place I had fond memories of as a child. We managed to score five minutes of fine weather to hop along the pavement. When the rain came again we took shelter under a sandstone cliff. I sat down on a kind looking rock. For some reason I thought "I wonder if there are any snakes around?" So I cast a quick glance to the side and low and behold, less than one foot away was a brown snake! It was just sitting there quietly. Never thought I could move so quick, or Steve, and he had his wet weather pants down having a pee! We were happy to walk in the rain after that. I do like the Tessellated Pavement, but I didn't want to end my days there.

We had a great evening meal in a pub in Sorell, which included brandy snaps, one of my favourites. Then it was "home again, home again jiggity-jig."

Gordon Dam, Tasmania
Gordon Dam


Tuesday, 6th March

Our last day in Hobart and a fine one at that! We were hoping for a good day to do the Hobart to Strathgordon ride, and here it was. It is 159km each way. You have to re-trace your steps on this ride, but it is a pleasure, and it is surprising how different the scenery can look on the return journey. We were on our way early as a 300km trip in Tassie can mean quite a few hours on the road. The cold, crisp morning had me signalling to Steve to stop so I could get the circulation back in my hands. My gloves are not Tasmania proof and it was only March!

The road to Strathgordon is a delightful ride. It meanders through tiny towns which hardly rate a mention on the map and beware, some of them may have run out of fuel! There was plenty of road-kill which kept us on our toes, even a crow-bar sat in the middle of the road - only in Tasmania.

There were still protesters camped out on the road-side trying to save the trees. We asked one of the locals about this as we thought all the remaining trees had been saved. They explained that there is still 2-3% of the old growth forest in danger of logging.

The road was not too challenging in the fine weather which allowed us to relax a little and enjoy the scenery as we rode along. At every opportunity we stopped to pick blackberries. Steve is good at picking them and I am good at eating them - what a team!

Apparently there is a group of enthusiastic individuals who have a vision to "undo" the damming of Lake Pedder and return the area to its original glory. How wonderful it is to listen to people who dare to dream big.

As we approached the Gordon River dam I found myself drawing breath at the sight of the dead trees sticking up out of the water. It was like a grave yard and the dead trees the grave stones. It is only because the water level is so low that it looks like this.

On the way home we gave thanks to the weather God. The ride to Strathgordon is one of the best and we would like to do it again and again and again.