Six Hundred Outback Miles

While travelling on my motorcycle (The Red Devil, a BMW F650GS twin) I often get ideas for new songs.

The inspiration for “Six Hundred Outback Miles” came to me when riding between Barkley Station and Daly Waters in the Northern Territory, Australia. By the time I arrived at the camp site, the tune and the first verse were set in stone. Over the next few weeks I had the pleasure of musing with the lyrics while I enjoyed riding the roads of the Northern Territory and listening and learning about Aboriginal Culture and Country.

I have just finished recording this song, which is on my latest album, “Does it Rhyme?”.

Another motorcycle adventure is about to start next month, so stay tuned for more blogs.

The Photographs:

Charles Knife Canyon, Pilbara, Western Australia

Lake Argyle, Kimberley, Western Australia

Cape Range National Park, Western Australia

Great Northern Highway, Pilbara, Western Australia

Great Western Tiers, Tasmania

A Jump-Up, Channel Country, Western Queensland

Overlander Roadhouse, Western Australia

Kata Tjuta (The Olgas), Northern Territory

Daly Waters, Northern Territory

Pemberton, South West Western Australia

Aboriginal Art, Wyndham, Western Australia

Mt Roland, Tasmania

Playing Music Sticks @ the Katherine Markets, Northern Territory

Campsite Porongurup National Park, South West Western Australia

Porongurup National Park, South West Western Australia

Gig @ Kalangadoo Crafts, Narrikup, South West Western Australia

Uluru (Ayers Rock), Northern Territory

Aboriginal Rock Art, Kakadu National Park, Northern Territory

Kimberley, Western Australia

Kings Canyon, Northern Territory

Kings Canyon, Northern Territory

Mabel Downs, Kimberley, Western Australia

Kakadu National Park, Northern Territory

Litchfield, Northern Territory

Kimberley, Western Australia

Porongurup National Park, South West Western Australia

BMW Summer 3 Pants Review

BMW Summer 3 Pants

I felt delighted with the styling and comfort of my new BMW Summer Pants, and just to be sure, I tested the conversion from pants to shorts and back again before I left the dealer showroom. The proof of the pudding is always in the eating, so the following day I decided to take my new jeans on a 500km run from Safety Bay (Western Australia) to Porongurup. My Ulysses Motorcycle Club bear came along for the ride, too, as he had been nagging me for some time about a badge for his riding jacket; like everyone else, Bear’s got to earn his stripes too.

Bear at Donnybrook

The air temperature was 24°C and the jeans felt comfortable and were breathing well all the way to our first pit stop at Donnybrook. The cargo pockets are great, although I would prefer a velcro fastening instead of press studs. It was nice to see that I stopped worrying about my keys as they were safely stowed away in a zipped hip pocket. The velcro ankle strap is worth its weight in gold and easily kept the jeans off the ground and stopped them from riding up.

It warmed up for the next leg to Manjimup, my temperature gauge nudging 32°C. Not far out of Bridgetown, a crow decided to test the hip protection and slapped me on the right. Sadly the bird lay stone dead in the road but the armour did its job and I don’t even have a slight bruise to help tell the story; I was starting to think “I was meant to buy these jeans.”

I felt warm in my jeans while I sipped tea in Manjimup, but I was smiling in the sure knowledge that if I’d been going for a walk around the township, I’d just convert my Summer Pants to shorts and be pretty dam comfortable.

Some nice back roads

While the farming folk were home enjoying lunch in the cool of their farmhouse kitchens, we rode on to Porongurup. Although the sun was lighting the way, it was hot on our backs and I started to understand why there were venting holes in the knee armour. We stopped at Rocky Gully to hydrate once more and I was hot in those jeans, but I would have felt hot in any jeans.

In summary, I’m loving my new Summer Pants, I haven’t washed them yet but with a two year warranty they’ve got the tick from me.

Bear showing off his Albany Commemorative pin

PS It seems that commemorative pins are out of fashion in small towns like Porongurup, so Bear had to ride on to Albany before he could find a pin for his riding jacket.

Steve’s New Lid - Kabuto (OGK) Aeroblade 3 Review

After several years and many kilometres Steve’s favourite touring helmet, an OGK Aeroblade II was looking worse for wear. So after a full day of checking out the local shops and trying on heaps of helmets a decision was finally made. A new Kabuto (previously OGK) Aeroblade 3 Maverick White/Red was purchased.

This is what Steve had to say:

The Aeroblade 3 is a great improvement from my previous Aeroblade II. I was always happy with my previous lid, but after four trips across the Nullarbor, and 80,000 kilometres, it was well past the time to change.

I took the new helmet for its first ride today, we did a favourite loop of 200 kms. Heading east from our house soon puts you on some quiet back roads where you can make your way to the Darling Range for some twisties. A coffee stop at the Blue Wren Cafe, Dwellingup, a great bikers joint. Then back down the range to Waroona, along the flats to the Harvey Estuary and lunch stop at the Bouvard Tavern. Then back home along the coast. A tough way to spend your day!

So what about the helmet:

• Just as good a fit and comfort as the old OGK (obviously depends on the shape of your head).
• The helmet is very light (very noticeable when turning head). It seemed to be one of the lightest available.
• Seems like very good aerodynamics, very little buffeting riding the Red Dwarf (R1200GS, so an upright seating position).
• Great ventilation, never before had a helmet where I could feel the air over the top of my head.
• Very quiet (more so when vents shut).

I think the new Aerobalde 3 is a vast improvement on an already good helmet. It’s lighter, quieter, better ventilated and with improved aerodynamics. I’m very happy with the purchase, so if you’re in the market for a new lid, check out the Kabuto Aeroblade 3.

Coral Coast Ride - Pilbara, Western Australia

Red Devil (BMW F650GS) and Red Dwarf (BMW R1200GS) pulled out of our driveway early on a Sunday morning in late August, both bikes dressed to the nines with camping gear, and Steve and I smiling from ear to ear in anticipation of a three week ride to North West Cape, the north-western tip of Australia. Sunday's aren't as quiet on the road as they used to be and we had fun snaking our way through the early morning traffic. The chilly 9°C had me switching my heated grips to full bore and within the hour we had made our way to the northern end of the freeway and were drinking tea and enjoying a bacon and egg roll at a roadside restaurant. Fulfilled and refreshed, we rode northwards amongst the wheat fields while bees made a mess of our visors and we developed a healthy respect for those who ride with no visor at all.

Green Head

We camped for a couple of nights at Green Head to walk amongst the wildflowers in Stockyard Gully and Lesueur National Parks. Then it was onwards and upwards, taking the Indian Ocean Drive and the Chapman Valley Road, to the historic town of Northampton. In Northampton we met Tim Spiteri and his partner Jo Noesgaard. Tim is a modern day adventurer, currently riding a bicycle around the country. Last year Tim was part of a team rowing across the Indian Ocean; thanks for the inspiration, Tim, we need folks like you to remind us what is truly possible.

Overlander Roadhouse

On the road from Northampton to Carnarvon, the bees were replaced with butterflies, and they made a mess of our visors too, but it didn't matter as we were enjoying our ride along the North West Coastal Highway. At times we had to slow down for the great wedge-tailed eagles that were pecking at the latest road kill. There are hundreds of travellers on the road these days and we had to queue for fuel at Overlander Roadhouse; $1.80/lt for unleaded petrol made me smile in the sure knowledge that we had arrived in the outback. We stopped for a while, just hanging out with the bikes, and watched the road trains thundering by.

Apparently the fruit and vegetable farms around Carnarvon provide 70% of Western Australia's total requirement but more importantly, as a traveller, Carnarvon is home to one of the best fish and chip shops in the state. We built our own seafood basket for two at Westcoast Fish 'n' Chips with one serve of snapper, eight prawns and eight scallops; all fresh and truly to die for.

Six-pack habit

We don't have refrigeration when we go camping with Devil and Dwarf so at around 4pm each day we would wonder over to the nearest grog shop and return with a cold six-pack to keep us amused and smiling until dinner time. This ritual became known as our six-pack habit and we enjoyed beers from the big brewers to boutique establishments, depending on what was on special.

Six-Pack Habit

 I've gotta six-pack habit when I'm on the road,

Where I headin' know body knows.

When the sun goes down I'll be sittin' around,

With my six-pack habit in some outback town.

North West Cape lighthouse

At Minilya Roadhouse the road forks left for those travelling to Exmouth and this quiet run through the desert is interesting and fun with a few curves to keep bike riders amused. On the approach into town we were warned to lookout for sheep hanging around on the road verges and sure enough we spotted our first woolly inhabitant 50km out of town. This unexpected desert dwelling herd kept us on our toes for the last half hour of the ride.

We spent five nights in Exmouth enjoying Ningaloo and Cape Range National Park. We took Devil and Dwarf for a run to Yardie Creek and a swim at Turquoise Bay. Only Dwarf went on the 4WD only ride through the gorge at Shot Hole Canyon. Riding pillion, I could enjoy the towering gorge walls without the anxiety of dropping Devil in one of the stony creek beds.

Jane and Hini

In Exmouth we met Hini Krutzfeldt. Hini shipped his BMW F800GS from Germany to Perth in July 2015 and will be riding around the country until November. Hini is an adventurer rider and street racer and we had great conversations at dinner time. I will always remember Hini whenever I reverse down a steep slope using the clutch (with the engine switched off) instead of struggling with the rear brake when the front brake won't grip.

The Red Dwarf, Shothole Canyon, Cape Range National Park

On our way south I fell in love with the snorkelling and the laid back lifestyle at Coral Bay. We didn't take a snorkelling tour; we just launched ourselves off the beach and let the current take us for a drift over the coral reef. We had anchored our Sparkman and Stephens 34 foot yacht, Roma II, at Pt Maud, one nautical mile north of Coral Bay, on 16th September 1993. We enjoyed a walk along the beach to the place where we had been before. According to our ships log we had waited six days for the wind to drop below 25knots.

With the sun behind us we had an easy ride back to Carnarvon, to restock the pantry pannier, and then took ourselves for a bikers look at Shark Bay.

We had our first bad travellers experience at Hamelin Pool Caravan Park (after over 100,000 kms of motorcycle travels). On returning from a short walk to the old shell quarry, there was a note tucked onto my bike asking us to "come and pay for our showers as showers are for paying customers only." We had not been near the toilets or the showers so Steve took the note back to the tea rooms and informed the girls that we hadn't had a shower. They accusingly replied, "Someone told us you had." They never apologised for insulting a couple of bikers, they just kept saying, "Someone told us you had used the showers." There was evidence that they had tried to take our riding jackets as ransom, fortunately they were locked onto Steve's bike. I hate to think about the outcome had they taken our jackets. Well, Hamelin Pool Caravan Park, we'll be spreading the word on your incompetent hospitality skills, and advising everyone we meet not to give you the time of day.

Compulsory photo of Dolphin at Monkey Mia 

Monkey Mia is a must see for Western Australians and we were lucky, on the morning of our visit, seven dolphins came to play at the sanctuary. These days the dolphins are only fed a snack sized fish and it is wonderful to see that the dolphins visit Monkey Mia to enjoy the people interaction and nothing more.

The weather turned against us when we were ready to ride for home so we holed up in Kalbarri to let the wind and the rain pass through. Then we were on the road for our last days ride, looking forward to the comforts of home and at the same time savouring the last moments of a thoroughly enjoyable three weeks camping with Devil and Dwarf; something deep within the soul told us "this is how we should be living."

Campsite on the beach at Denham, Shark Bay

Motorcycle Riding in the South West

Freemason's Hotel - Bridgetown

One look at the radar to confirm the severity of the thunder storms tramping through the South West and we delayed our departure for twenty four hours. Although we were disappointed, we knew if we were caught out in a severe thunder squall we'd be wishing, harder than we'd ever wished before, we'd found some patience.

We were riding away from the city's streets by 8am. A few spots of rain collected on my visor but I didn't let them dampen my mood, instead I tuned in to the gentle purring sound that Devil (BMW F650GS) makes when I'm listening through a set of disposable ear plugs. In the heat of summer it was a joy to ride under a cloudy sky. A quick burst on the freeway and we were slinking our way along Patterson Road all the way to Pinjarra. A windmill confirmed there was not even a zephyr stirring the air and we knew we had made the transition to country culture when a ute pulled into a servo outside Harvey carrying two large hay bales in the tray.

Just another truck.

Timing is everything, even down to who you follow along the highway, and unbeknownst to us we pulled out a few kilometres behind a dump truck carrying a skip full of rubbish. The stink was in the wind and up our noses for over 20km before we rid ourselves of the offending vehicle. We weren't complaining though, as one of the wonders of motorcycle riding is you are fully immersed in the environment you ride in.

We brunched at the Apple Pie Bakery in Donnybrook and then we were on the road again, enjoying our own thoughts and dreams as we rode along. From Bridgetown we found Winnejup Rd, a country lane, at times only wide enough for a single vehicle, before joining the Boyup Brook - Cranbrook Rd for the run into Frankland. There were a few trucks on this stretch of road but the first truckie must have made a call on the radio because all the others kept well to the left.

Porongurup National Park.

There is a great rest area in Frankland and we took the opportunity to hydrate and educate ourselves about the local area. The map on the tourist board indicated that Bunbury was only 104km away. A spirited discussion erupted around the bikes until a map was produced proving that Bunbury was more like 200km away.

When the Stirling Range appeared as we approached the Albany Highway we knew we were nearing our destination at Porongurup. We had cruised along all day in near perfect conditions with only pot holes full of water to remind us of the storms from raged the day before. Dwarfie (BMW R1200GS) went ahead to open the gate for me and as I eased Devil down the gravel driveway I noticed I was singing a few lines from the old classic "What A Difference A Day Makes."

2014 Australian MotoGP - Race Day

The Royal Box, viewed from Pit Lane.

On Gardner Strait, directly opposite the start finish line, is the Royal Box. Don't be fooled by the tacky livery on this room built for four. Inside you will find large, comfortable chairs, air conditioning, two TV screens, a bar fridge filled to the brim and your own personal host who will allegedly get you "anything you want." I won the exclusive use of this fully catered facility on race day; it doesn't get better than that.

Royal Box luxury.

We were making ourselves feel right at home by 10am and Jordan, our host for the day, wasted no time in serving bacon and egg muffins, two each if you could fit them in. When the MotoGP bikes rode onto the track for their twenty minute warm-up we swapped coffee for champagne and beer and kicked back in our leisure chairs smiling all the while.

We went hands-on for the start of each race and ventured outside to our own private viewing area. General admission punters tried to sneak into our space but they were quickly removed by security. Australian Moto3 rider, Jack Miller, had us all on the edge of our seats as he took the lead and then lost it again from one lap to another. "Come on Jack" was the cry coming from inside the Royal Box every time the Moto3 dudes flashed passed our picture window. Jordan served more man food half way through the Moto3 race but we soon wolfed it down and were standing again ready to cheer Jack across the finish line - Jack won the race.

I have been a Rossi fan for years.

The MotoGP race didn't disappoint with team mates Lorenzo and Rossi having a good clean fight until Lorenzo's tyre choice haunted him and Rossi pulled out a convincing lead. Marquez looked like he was going to run away with it until he binned it ten laps before the end, leaving crowd favourite, Valentino Rossi, to pick up the spoils and bring home the race win. Ducati maestro, Cal Crutchlow, should have finished second but he lost the front end on the last lap and failed to finish. Lorenzo was second and Bradley Smith third.

250 starts, 7 championships, 108 wins & 194 podiums in MotoGP/500cc 

Rossi's pit board.

The crowd poured onto the track as soon as the safety car declared it "safe for human consumption" and we left the sanctuary of the Royal Box and joined the scrum beneath the podium. It seemed unbelievable that Rossi was celebrating a race win on his 250th MotoGP start. "250 Not Out" banners were waved by thousands of fans as the winners sprayed champagne into the wind. It was great to see Bradley Smith on the podium for the first time in 2014. I remember Bradley from the 2006 Sepang MotoGP, they called him the Smith Kid back then, he was only 16 years old.

That night we walked into Cowes for the last time, savouring the last moment of the MotoGP weekend. After all, attending the Australian MotoGP was on our bucket list and we sure did it in style.

The Royal Box was part of an Australian Motorcycle News competition where we were asked to define, in twenty five words or less "How MotoGP riders defy the rules of nature." I wrote:

Lightening Speed, Quick Wit,

Sixth Sense, Ultra Fit.

No Fear, Electronic Control,

Tyre Grip, Insatiable Soul.

Australian Motorcycle News stand at the GPexpo. Thanks AMCN!

2014 Australian MotoGP - Pit Wall

Pit Lane Access

No one was more surprised than me when I received a phone call from Australian Motorcycle News (AMCN) to say I was the winner of the $12,000 MotoGP prize. The prize was a no expense spared trip for four to the 2014 Australian MotoGP and it didn't take long to find a couple of mates to join us for the trip of a lifetime to Phillip Island.

The Australian Grand Prix Corporation cleverly provide some prizes that money can't buy and part of our prize package was a session on the pit wall for the MotoGP practice on Saturday morning.

The Ducati girls were like statues.

It seemed too good to be true when we were escorted to our canopy on the pit wall, next to Ducati, just as Lorenzo and Marquez were leaving their garages.

Pretty girls adorned each side of the pit garages, all dressed differently, all with the same effect. 

The riders returned to the pits several times during the 45 minute session and we enjoyed every moment as they coasted past us on their way to another lap of the track. 

Valentino Rossi, a winner on his 250th MotoGP Start.

Rossi didn't disappoint with the ritual adjustment of his leathers and we scored Valentino's tear off shortly after it was discarded onto pit lane. Pedrosa, who was having a bad session, allowed us to see the frustration in his eyes before slamming his visor tight shut.

To get so close and personal with these riders and their bikes was without doubt a once in a life time magic motor racing moment; even the dudes looking down from the corporate facility checked us out with envy.

When our time was up we walked away, fully aware of what had been and what would never be again; sometimes you just gotta pinch yourself.

2014 MotoGP Champion, Marc Marquez, Repsol Honda Team.